Day 15 of 30
Day 15 · Week 3 · Regional Mastery
Brocade-woven in Varanasi. Kadhwa, cutwork, korvai — three signatures.
🏛️
Varanasi silk brocade
WEEK 3 · REGIONAL MASTERY
Banarasi — Varanasi's
Silk Brocade Tradition
Real silk + real zari + a Varanasi pit-loom. Kadhwa, cutwork, korvai — the three signatures.
The Concept
Banarasi = silk brocade, woven on a Varanasi loom
Banarasi is the silk brocade sari woven in Varanasi (Banaras), Uttar Pradesh. The base is pure mulberry silk; the motifs are woven in using extra weft threads of real zari (silver-gilt thread). A traditional Banarasi takes 15 days to 6 months of weaving on a wooden pit-loom. The three real markers: kadhwa weave (each motif woven separately, no float), cutwork (extra weft cut off the back rather than floated), and korvai (a different-colour border joined to the body — interlocked, not stitched). If a sari has none of these, it isn't a real Banarasi.
Silk + Real Zari + Varanasi Pit-Loom
= Banarasi
GI-tagged since 2009 — the words Banaras Brocades & Sarees are protected.
Visual Guide
Four Banarasi Types to Know
Lightest → Heaviest Banarasi
Sheer Banarasi · light wear☀️ Summer
Self-pattern · woven shine🎉 Festive
Heavy zari · wedding💒 Wedding
All-over heavy brocade💒 Wedding
Six months to weave👑 Heirloom
← Lighter weavesHeirloom heavy →
Side by Side
Four Banarasi Types to Know
💒
Katan
PURE
silk
Katan
Classic wedding Banarasi
💒 WeddingPure silkHeavy zari
🌳
Jangla
DENSE
brocade
Jangla
Forest-motif Banarasi
💒 WeddingAll-over motifsHeavy
🏹
Shikargah
6
months
Shikargah
Hunting-scene heirloom
👑 HeirloomNarrative motifSix-month weave
🌸
Tanchoi
SELF
pattern
Tanchoi
Self-pattern · no extra weft
🎉 FestiveWoven shineTone-on-tone
How to Spot a Real Banarasi
| Tell-tale | Real Banarasi | Imitation |
|---|---|---|
Border join Look at where border meets body |
Korvai · interlocked | Stitched or printed |
Back of motif Zari behind the design |
Floats cut (cutwork) | Long floats hanging |
Weight in hand Should feel substantial |
Heavy from silk + zari | Light · synthetic |
Zari thread Burn a tiny tip |
Real metal core stays | Plastic melts to ball |
Motif edges Kadhwa weave |
Each motif self-contained | Floats between motifs |
GI mark On bridal pieces |
Banaras GI tag present | No tag |
Put It to Work
How to Use This in Your Store
Your Brand Edge
When a customer is comparing a 'Banarasi style' sari at one price and a real Banarasi at another, point to the border. On real Banarasi, the border is joined to the body using korvai — a hand-interlocked weaving technique you can see if you look closely. A printed border, or a border that's been stitched on, is not Banarasi. Then flip the sari and show her the back: real cutwork has neat short threads cut off; imitation has long zari floats hanging loose.
"Bride ji, dekhiye border — see how the red joins the body without a stitch line? That's korvai, hand-interlocked weaving — only real Banarasi has this. Aur ye back side dekho: zari ke chhote-chhote threads cut hain, long float nahi. Yeh real Varanasi ka kadhwa Banarasi hai. Six months bana hua, GI-tagged."
Remember this always: A real Banarasi is silk brocade woven in Varanasi with real zari. Three markers prove it: kadhwa (separate motif weave), cutwork (zari floats cut, not hanging), and korvai (hand-interlocked border). GI-tagged since 2009.
Day 15 Quiz
Check What You Learned
3 questions · Mark your attendance · Keep your streak alive 🔥
Question 1 of 3
A real Banarasi sari is woven in:
A
Kanchipuram
B
Varanasi
C
Surat
D
Bhuj
Question 2 of 3
Korvai refers to:
A
A type of dye
B
A silk variety
C
The hand-interlocked border-to-body join technique
D
A motif name
Question 3 of 3
On a real Banarasi, the back of the motif shows:
A
Cut zari threads (cutwork), not long floats
B
Long hanging gold threads
C
Printed pattern
D
Nothing — totally blank
Your WhatsApp Number
+91
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